Movies of War

1 of 5 2 of 5 Get the best of Vancouver in your inbox, every Tuesday and Thursday. Sign up for our free newsletter.Running a restaurant in Vancouver has never been easy. But for many operators, the math is starting to feel impossible.Last year, the Straight published a story titled “It’s grim”: Vancouver restaurants brace for more tough times. The piece struck a nerve. It became the fourth-most read story on the website in 2025 and sparked widespread discussion online—including a lively debate on Reddit among diners, chefs, and industry insiders.The response went beyond the comment section. Earlier this year, the Straight convened a group of chefs and restaurant owners at Glowbal Restaurant, with support from Merchant Growth, to talk candidly about the pressures facing Vancouver’s hospitality industry—from rising costs and staffing shortages to regulatory hurdles.After that gathering, the Straight continued speaking with operators across the city, asking a simple follow-up question: what would actually make Vancouver’s restaurant industry healthier?One of the clearest examples of the challenges comes from Claire Livia Lassam, owner of the Mount Pleasant restaurant Livia Forno e Vino.Each year she pays $990 to keep her restaurant permit active. Her patio permit adds another $3,270.20.With margins hovering around five percent, Lassam calculates that she needs to generate more than $65,000 in revenue just to break even on that patio. The irony: the patio doesn’t add seats. City rules require her to remove tables from inside the restaurant to ensure it doesn’t exceed its permitted capacity of 53 seats—a number determined by washroom count.“It’s insane,” she says. “With five percent margins that means I have to make about $65,000 just to break even on the patio.” And the patio is only one example.If a couple wants to buy out the 50-seat restaurant for a wedding—complete with a full dinner service and some dancing afterward—Lassam must apply for a $500 “temporary patron participation license.” The city allows her only five such permits per year.“They are still full dinners, and the majority of the bill is still for food,” she says. “But I’m only allowed five weddings a year. It’s highway robbery.”Stories like Lassam’s prompts a broader question: what would actually improve Vancouver’s restaurant industry?The Straight asked chefs, restaurateurs, and hospitality leaders for their ideas. Claire Livia Lassam Sabrina Miso Reduce patio permit feesClaire Livia Lassam, owner/operator, Livia Forno e VinoFor Lassam, patio permitting reflects a broader disconnect between policy and practice.High annual fees, combined with rules that limit capacity, mean patios can end up costing more than they contribute—turning what should be an asset into a liability for small operators. Ron MacGillivray (image supplied) Reduce tax burdens on restaurantsRon Macgillivray, owner, Fable DinerFor Macgillivray, government policy is the biggest lever shaping the industry’s future.“Changing the fortune of the restaurant industry in Vancouver boils down to government and their policies,” he says.His suggestions include freezing minimum wage increases in B.C. for two years and eliminating GST on restaurant meals.“Bonus,” he adds, “increase dining-out tax deductions from the current 50 percent to 75 percent and increase office gathering limits from six per year to 12.”Stabilize commercial rents for small restaurantsKim Tran, owner, DD Mau ChinatownFor many independent restaurants, rent remains the biggest unknown.“One meaningful change would be the introduction of a commercial rent stabilization program for small restaurants,” Tran says.Lease renewals often bring dramatic increases.“A framework tying annual rent increases to inflation—or offering incentives for landlords who provide long-term stable leases—would give independent restaurants the predictability needed to invest in staff, infrastructure, and community.”Rethink tipping cultureRobert Belcham, chef/restaurateur, Popina Canteen and Monarch Burger; Chefs Table Society of BCBelcham argues the industry must rethink its reliance on tipping.“Tipping is a sacred cow that must evolve to revitalize Canada’s restaurant industry,” he says. “Start by paying all employees according to their experience and as close to a living wage as possible, adjust menu prices upward to offset costs, and reduce expected tipping prompts to three to five percent.”He believes the shift would stabilize teams while easing pressure on diners.“This delivers fairer pay, eases customer pressure, stabilizes teams, and lays a solid foundation for a more resilient industry.” Ted Wilkie (image supplied) End the liquor distribution monopolyTeddy Wilkie, operating partner, ProphecyWilkie believes Vancouver’s hospitality sector would benefit from opening liquor distribution to competition.“Right now operators are held hostage by a single supply channel,” he says. “We’re paying excessive markups, taxes, and even losing product access during strikes.”Allowing private wholesalers would change that dynamic.“Opening distribution would create competition, stabilize supply, reduce costs, and allow hospitality businesses to operate like real businesses.” Iori Kataoka (image supplied) Modernize liquor distribution while preserving oversightIori Kataoka, co-owner, Yuwa Japanese CuisineKataoka agrees the liquor distribution system needs modernization, though she stresses balance.“The current model has provided stability and significant public revenue for decades, and that role is important,” she says.But recent disruptions exposed vulnerabilities.“The recent distribution strike—which industry groups estimated disrupted up to $250 million in liquor sales—revealed how vulnerable both restaurants and provincial revenue can be when supply is highly centralized.”She believes British Columbia should explore alternatives used in other provinces.“The goal is not deregulation, but balance—protecting public revenue while allowing hospitality businesses to innovate and operate with greater supply stability.”Make hospitality a sustainable careerJohnny Bridge, president, Chefs Table Society of BC; sous chef, UBC Food ServicesFor Bridge, the industry’s biggest issue is workforce sustainability.“The number-one change Vancouver’s restaurant industry needs is to offer sustainable careers in hospitality,” he says.That includes benefits and stability often missing from restaurant work.“This means normalizing health benefits, mental-health support, vacation-permitting schedules, and financial incentives that reward people for staying in the industry.”Ultimately, the issue is about people.“The defining resource of hospitality is its employees being hospitable. If we can’t offer fair wages and basic supports, the industry isn’t sustainable.” James Pare (image supplied) Expand access to international workersJames Paré, CEO, Paré Restaurant Group (Caramba, Quattro, Lorette)Labour shortages remain one of the most pressing issues in resort markets like Whistler.“To meaningfully improve the industry, we must streamline and expand the temporary foreign worker program,” Paré says.Seasonal economies create unique staffing pressures.“Whistler’s seasonal fluctuations, combined with record-high labour costs and rising rents, have created an unsustainable environment.”He believes easing immigration and work visa restrictions would stabilize operations.“It’s the specific, actionable change needed to replace lost quality employees and ensure smaller establishments remain profitable.” Join the discussion Facebook comments not loading? Please check your browser settings to ensure that it is not blocking Facebook from running on straight.com